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Week in Reviews: Savoy Keeps its Two

Always Hungry

Today Frank Bruni becomes the third critic to weigh in on Peter Hoffman's Soho vet Savoy, maintaining its two stars. The angle here: Even though newer locavore restaurants (ahem, Blue Hill) hog the attention, Savoy still merits a trip:

"It’s easy to overlook that, given all the loud and proud locavores upon the land today. It’s easy to forget about Mr. Hoffman and about Savoy, whose leafy, principled menu now seems less a breath of fresh cooking than the default setting of the urban bistro, where a chef contemplates ramps in May, butternut squash in November.
"it remains an attention-worthy restaurant, on account of how deeply pleasant an afternoon or evening here can be. Its low-key charms haven’t faded since its opening in 1990, and its adjustments over time have been wise ones."
[NYT]

Jay Cheshes sings the praises of Harbour: "...even if the space recalls a time when Schaeffer’s banking buddies still had money to burn, Isidori’s cooking is a throwback of a different sort—hearkening to the days before fusion fare had become a bad clich&eacute...the young chef has a jazz master’s talent for combining disparate notes into a harmonious whole." [TONY]

Adam Platt gives a onespot to Govind Armstrong's Table 8, focusing on its very un-NYC qualities: "we take an almost perverse delight in trashing out-of-town cooks and their lofty out-of-town reputations...It’s an out-of-towner’s restaurant, designed by out-of-towners to give their out-of-town guests...the illusion that they’re actually dining in New York." [NYM]

Like Plattypants, The RG is disappointed with Govind Armstrong's Table 8, giving it two stars: "Unfortunately, the portions are really small at Table 8 and, too often, so are the flavors...I want to forget what I’m talking about when I take a bite of something wonderful. The only dishes that came close to distracting me were an appetizer of sautéed scallop...and the grilled baby chicken..." [NYDN]

THE ELSEWHERE: Julia Moskin files an Under on the barely month-old UWS spot Recipe, Ryan Sutton checks in on Bar Artisanal, Table 8, and DBGB, Robert Sietsema worries about the future of Soho West's Harbour, Alan Richman pens a rave for the Brooklyn Flea, The Brooklyn Paper has a great burger at Building on Bond, Gael Greene is enamored with Marea, and Sarah DiGregorio finds stinky tofu in Rego Park at Andy's Seafood Grill.

THE BLOGS: NYC Foodie is blown away by Salumeria Rosi, NY Journal follows Bruni to Suenos, Goodies First has an inhuman endurance to the spice at Rhong Tiam, eateryROW finds the chicken too salty at Egg, and Nick Solares gives a C to Table 8.

Savoy

70 Prince Street, New York, NY 10012 212-219-8570

DBGB Kitchen & Bar

931 H Street Northwest, , DC 20001 (202) 695-7660 Visit Website

Marea

240 Central Park South, Manhattan, NY 10019 (212) 582-5100 Visit Website

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