The lede in today's New Yorker review of Delicatessen, the first assessment to come after a big chef change: "As soon as the government has finished with the banks, a stress test for restaurants might be in order, and the ones in east SoHo and on the Lower East Side, which have burgeoned roughly in step with bank branches, should be first in line...it will emerge that many...are stuck with assets (and food) that are undoubtedly toxic." And this: "If Topshop were a restaurant, it would be this restaurant." [New Yorker]
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