Frankie B samples the pies at Co. this week, giving Jim Lahey's ode to dough an expected one star. The pies are often praiseworthy, but they miss the mark when it comes to toppings and inconsistent charring:
"The frequently mobbed and fervently discussed new restaurant Co...was born of a worship of dough. That’s why the pizzas at the center of its menu are as good as they are. That may also be why they’re not even better....Although the best of them are outstanding and all pack the pleasures of a serious crust with serious blisters...he hasn’t yet nailed the toppings.
It’s as if he’s too focused on, and maybe too confident about, what lies beneath. A pizzaiolo-come-lately, he needs to sweat the cheese and the rest of it a little more...And those blisters sometimes multiply and spread into jarringly ashy, sooty territory."And for your convenience, Bruni ranks his faves: the popeye, the ham and cheese, the stracciatella, the flambé, and the leek-and-sausage. [NYT]
Ligaya Mishan files an Under on the "time capsule of arrested adolescence" that is Momofuku Milk Bar : "...therein lies the conundrum of Milk Bar. Some of Ms. Tosi’s experiments are playful and deeply satisfying. But others are over the top, as if conceived in a fit of the munchies. They seem like a good idea at the time, but leave you woozy and depleted." [NYT]
The RG visits the authentic Japanese robatayaki/tourist trap Inakaya, located in the New York Times Building. The stunts, the food earn three stars: "...if you're looking for peace and quiet, eat somewhere else....it's the first genuine robatayaki — a farmhouse-style grill — in New York. So reserve a spot at the 30-seat robata counter, where the real ceremony between you and the grill chef takes place." [NYDN]
Adam Platt visits the massive remake of Joe Baum's famed La Fonda del Sol, cheffed by Josh DeChellis. He gives her a two: "DeChellis is originally from Colombia, and it turns out he’s as adept at turning out creative tapas facsimiles as he is at everything else...Iberian-food traditionalists won’t find much to get excited about among the entrées at La Fonda del Sol, however." [NYM]
THE ELSEWHERE: Ryan Sutton files on the fiery and delicious Fatty Crab UWS, Randall Lane enjoys the cocktails more than the food at Macao Trading Co., Tables for Two is won over by almost all of the pies at Co., and Sarah DiGregorio gets the scoop on the sausage-obsessed Wechsler's Currywurst & Bratwurst.
THE BLOGS: Gatro Chic checks in on Lucali, Lifestyle of a Yuppie isn't floored by the Peter Luger burger, The Hungry Roach is won over by Txikito, Goodies First favors the fried cheese curds at Char No. 4, Ed Levine gives a B+ to Latin Thing, and A Hamburger Today finds a serious burger at 5ive Steak in JFK.