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Tomorrow, Frank Bruni reviews Jim Lahey's Jean-Georges-backed, super-hyped pizzeria Co.. Today, the Eater oddsmakers have set the action as follows:
Zero Stars: 10-1
One Star: EVEN ??
Two Stars: 5-1
Three Stars: 500-1
Four Stars: 20,736-1
Lahey serves up a damn good pie at Co. A damn good pie. Are there nights when it's off? Is there room for improvement? Have we been served dirty silverware and water glasses? Yes, yes and yes. But he's created a solid roster of pies that most people seem to like most of the time. No matter how chaotic the service is, how unbearable the din is, we don't expect Frank the Matador to drop the goose on this place.
But could it reach into the two star stratosphere? Bruni did call the Popeye pie "one of the most memorable things I’ve eaten in months." Perhaps this will be a game-changing review where he announces open season on two-starring whatever promising bahn mi stand and pricey pizza shop he comes across next. But frankly, we don't think the man is ready to set that dangerous precedent (especially when Motorino was Briefed and Artichoke stuck in the Under). We're laying down on one star tomorrow. Betting windows are now open; step lively.
· Co. [NYT; after 8:00 PM]
?? denotes the Eater bet.
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