A few weeks after Daniel Boulud chastised the print food mags for fearmongering and encouraging readers to stay home and eat in, Gourmet runs a trifecta review on Corton, The John Dory, and the remade Bouley. For the requisite recession hook, they note that the incredibly pricey restaurants are thriving in spite of the poorly timed debuts: It begins...dramatically:
"Tumbleweeds were skittering down Wall Street late last year, and the wintry air was filled with a flutter of pink slips, so it obviously wasn’t the ideal time to be opening a high-ticket restaurant...
...culinary entrepreneurs all over America were probably watching to see what kind of bounce $45 entrées and $125 tasting menus would get on the eve of the New Depression. The answer? Boing! At least so far."Boing is right. We're not so sure Bouley is as bustling as they say, but the restaurant indeed hasn't had to stoop to loosening up on the dress code to bring in the bodies.
The rest of the article features rave reviews (Bouley is "stunning," Corton, "breathtaking"), but in all, it's a nice reminder that people are actually spending money, and lots of it, out at restaurants. If only the wealth could be spread around.
· It's Up to You New York, New York [Gourmet]
· Three Veteran Chefs on the Media, the Economy, Survival [~E~]
· Eater Maps: Recession Proof Restaurants [~E~]