Tomorrow, Frank Bruni reviews Bouley, David Bouley's recently relocated Tribeca mainstay. Today, the Eater oddsmakers have set the action as follows:
Zero Stars: 15,000-1Given Frankie Two Star's recent predilection for more affordable (and interesting) restaurants, we weren't expecting a fine dining re-review curveball. But it's about time. Brizzuni's first visit to David Bouley's most refined property in his Tribeca empire took place almost five years ago, when he stripped the restaurant of a star (though technically, William Grimes' prior four spot went to an iteration of Bouley Bakery). In that time, the menu has been revamped, the service has reportedly improved, and the entire dining room has moved down a block.
One Star: 2,000-1
Two Stars: 5-1
Three Stars: 3-1 âˆšâˆš
Four Stars: 20-1
The most visible change here is the dining room, which is, natch, very lovely. But, the question we deal with today is whether or not this is "Bouley at his brilliant best," a question that most critics and many diners haven't concerned themselves with in the last half-decade.
We don't see David pulling out the fourpack. And while it wouldn't shock us to hear Bouley is no longer a three-star destination, that it's been coasting for too long, we don't think Brundog Millionaire is cruel enough to strip Bouley of a star at a time like this, right after delivering a slam of a goose egg to Secession three months ago. We're going to throw down for a three.
· Bouley [NYT; after 8:00 PM]
âˆšâˆš denotes the Eater bet.