Tomorrow, Frank Bruni reviews The John Dory, April Bloomfield's Del Posto-adjacent seafood restaurant. Today, the Eater oddsmakers have set the action as follows:
Zero Stars: 25-1
One Star: 6-1
Two Stars: 3-1
Three Stars: 5-1 ??
Four Stars: 250-1
Ken Friedman and chef Bloomfield meet with Bee-Bop-A-Bruni for the first time since he gave the Spotted Pig a low, shot-in-the-kneecap-low one star in early 2006. At John Dory, Friedman has made no secret of the fact that this place is his bid to get Bloomfield the Times praise she didn't get at the Pig—although off the printed page no one disputes her kitchen prowess. With the help of his investor and mentor Joe Bastianich, he installed Babbo alum David Lynch up front; plus they've got a proper amuse-bouche program and are offering other three-star touches like the choice of breads, excellent wine by the glass, and, yes, reservations. The package went only so far as to get the restaurant two stars from Adam Platt, but this is exactly the type of restaurant—edgy, cliquey—on which the two critics disagree. Statistically, two stars is the most likely verdict, especially because in 2009 the Bruni has established his low-low tolerance for questionable prices, of which there are many here. On the other hand, Bloomfield's flavors have a distinct pop to them and this, along with the Babbo factor may boost the joint into the three star club. Eater is going this way, with an unexpected tres. Bettors, please have your cash ready.
· The John Dory [NYT; after 8:00 PM]
?? denotes the Eater bet.