Ask and ye shall receive. Just a day after we posted our Top Ten restaurants that Sam Sifton should re-review, he's crossing one off the list. Tomorrow, Sifty Pants will review New York City classic La Grenouille, closing out a decade that saw the demise of Chanterelle, Montrachet, La Côte Basque, Lutèce, and La Caravelle.
THE PLAYBOOK: La Grenouille was last graced with a Times review in 1993, when Ruth Reichl gave it three stars, gushing over the service, the room, the rich patrons. Since then, the 47 year-old restaurant symbolized old school New York as its peers fell away or relocated one by one. And while the restaurant is often recognized by the James Beard Awards for its excellent service, it's not often put through the rigors of a full critic rundown. In fact, when Bruni attempted a re-review last year, he decided against it, not wanting to be the one to demote a dinosaur. Will Sifton be so kind?
SIFT HAPPENS: If he does what's expected, Sifton will bring the old-timer to the spotlight, reaffirming its need to exist along with its three star status. However, if Sift Happens, and the food dives off the cliff as it did for Bruni, if the pricepoint just doesn't make sense to him in this climate, he'll take them down a notch, noting they can't survive while resting on their laurels. Regardless, he is at least putting it back on the general public's radar.
THE LINE: One Star: 4,000 - 1; Sift Happens: 4-1; Three Stars: 3-1; Four Stars: 40 - 1. [La Grenouille Reviewed, NYT; after ~8 PM]