Whoo boy. Christmas is coming early for all New York Times readers tomorrow as Sam Sifton files his first assessment of the Jeffrey Chodorow universe. And it's a twofer! Tomorrow, Sifton will lay down the law on both Ed's Chowder House, the remake of Center Cut, and Tanuki Tavern, the redo the Ono space. The biting question: will there or will there not be an ad in the Times from one Mr. El Chod as a followup?
PLAYBOOK: Though El Chod has a bumpy relationship with the Times, or more specifically, with Frank the Matador, Sifty will give him a fair shake here. And to be fair, these two restaurants aren't half bad. The Chowder House especially has been getting a favorable review or two, and it's a massive improvement upon the former tenant. Tanuki? There are some standouts on that menu, there are come clunkers, but Chod has been smart enough to bring in enough of his chef friends to taste the menu and give critiques, saving it from shitshow territory. It's no two star, it's no MePa respite, but it's fine.
SIFT HAPPENS: Chances are he'll play the line and give them both a one. But let's say he's spotted each and every time (chances are good on this), and Ed Brown is in the house at Chowder, and he orders the exact right things at Tanuki. If Sift Happens, he goes double two.
THE LINE: Ed's Chowder House: Goose Egg: 10 - 1; One Star: 3 - 1; SIFT HAPPENS: 5-1; Three Stars: 20 - 1
Tanuki Tavern: Goose Egg: 3 - 1; One Star: 2-1; SIFT HAPPENS: 7 - 1; Three Stars: 25 - 1. [Ed's Chowder House and Tanuki Tavern Reviewed, NYT; ~ after 8 PM]