Sifton to File on San Domenico's '09 Redo, SD26

Tomorrow, Sam Sifton files his latest "Restaurants" review, this one on SD26, Tony and Marisa May's ambitious redo and relocation of their Central Park South institution San Domenico.

PLAYBOOK: For those keeping score, this is the fourth glitzy, oversized relocation or expansion project that Green Eggs and Sam has filed on in as many weeks. And if he follows his track record—Aureole, Oceana, and A Voce Columbus can all be seen as demotions of sorts—things don't bode particularly well. Like its contemporaries in the group, San Domenico left its tony, perhaps dated and stuffy digs uptown for a sleek, modern space populated more by young Euros than elderly Upper East Siders. If Odette Fada's food remains solid, he'll overlook the clamor, the ergonomic dispenser, the electronic wine list, and maintain its two stars from '03. If not, she's looking at a one.

SIFT HAPPENS: This is a onespot or a deuce. But if Sifty is in love with the room, the open kitchen, the youngins bellying up to the bar, the new flexible menu—that is, if Sift Happens—Team May could be staring down a three.

LINE: One Star: 4-1; Two Stars: 3-1; Sift Happens: 20-1; [SD26 Reviewed; NYT; after ~8 PM]