The RG visits The John Dory, and unlike Plattster, she's a fast fan, giving it four stars: "Too many chefs think of fish as a faceless protein. She understands that texture and flavor are equally important...The oyster pan roast is a mind-blowing cup of soup. It tastes naughty. And I haven't even mentioned the sea urchin-buttered crostini that comes with it..." [NYDN]
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