NYMag's art critic (a "food virgin") gets an invite to go to El Bulli and files a breathless account of the molecular gastronomy palace and its chef Ferran Adria. Adria is Picasso, an alchemist, a performance artist, and above all else a seducer: "It was meal as inner and outer spectacle, symphony, journey, rite, and orgy...All I know is I was ravished: When the chef appeared afterward, I felt embarrassed when he looked at me, and jealous because he had done the same thing with other people." [NYM]
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