Vanity Fair on Ko: It's a Chinese Dumpling Haven

Above we have an image from Vanity Fair's Fall Culture Guide (here, click "I'll Take Manhattan"). Writers classify the restaurants in the Momofuku empire in a number of ways, but we're surprised Graydon Carter took this route. Our tipster is similarly perlexed:

"First of all, Chinese? Second of all, that’s not really a very good description of a place that grates frozen foie gras over lychees and Riesling gélee, if you know what I mean."