The RG has a rave for the Jean-Georges/Matsushita brothers Tribeca project Matsugen, and it gets four out of five stars: "I can tell you that Jean-Georges Vongerichten has done New York an enormous favor....In a way, it all comes down to noodles - smooth, medium, coarse, some hot, some cold, bathing in a dozen different broths...when you stir it with your chopsticks - piercing the egg yolk - suddenly you find yourself staring into a swirling galaxy of soba." [NYDN]
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