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On Absent Chefs

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In lieu of his review this week the Cuozz has a slam for all those absent chefs and 'consulting' chefs, the Pelaccios, the Samuelssons, the Ducasses, in New York: "The frenzy for rock-star glory has propelled your favorite culinary god out of the kitchen into far-ranging quests for TV, cookbook and 'branding' deals in Las Vegas and beyond...today, kitchen-aversion has infected much lesser talents and pops up at restaurants where the chef is MIA almost from Day One." [NYP]

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