In his review of Ducasse's French bistro Benoit, Bruni mentioned that the hostess bid him farewell in Italian, not French. Former Times critic Mimi Sheraton isn't all that surprised: "...when Ducasse decided Mix was to be an Italian restaurant, I found it strange that the staff spoke French..lots of bon soirs and mercis...Maybe his way of saying he is bringing class to Italian food. Now Italian spoken at Benoit may be saying he is bringing contemporary raffishness to French food." [Eater Comments]
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