Robert Bohr, right, and his 1988 Larlot
With tonight's marquee events, the Food & Wine Best New Chefs party and Dave Chang's whole hog slaughter at Hickory House, the focus of the Classic will undoubtedly shift back to food. But, thus far, especially with the late night scene proving to be a snooze, the best times had have been in the vicinity of the big dog sommeliers. Thursday night one wanted to be in the orbit of Richard Betts, master sommelier at The Little Nell, or Daniel Johnnes, wine director at Daniel's restaurants. Betts was the guy with the key to the house cellar and Johnnes rolled in with a magnum of something genius from 1985. Last night, it was Robert Bohr, wine director of Cru, and his jerobaom of 1988 Domaine de L’Arlot ‘Clos des Fo?rets St. Georges’ that were the show. Because, as we overheard Johnnes saying before he hopped the gondola to the Morocco on the Mountain party at the summit, "I'm just going to go back and grab a couple of bottles of wine. Who knows what they're pouring up there?"