The RG files her review on Alain Ducasse's Benoit, and while she finds some winners (escargot, onion soup), it only earns two stars: "This isn't food that's meant to spotlight the chef. This is food that ought to transcend a chef's ego, something Ducasse acknowledges...The trouble is that the food itself simply isn't transcendent. You can find excellent bistro food all over New York in a less formal atmosphere." [NYDN]
Filed under: