Tomorrow, Frank Bruni reviews Momofuku Ko, Big David Chang's 12-seat chef showcase in the East Village. Perhaps you've heard of it. Today, the Eater oddsmakers have set the action as follows:
Zero Stars: 15-1So there's Adam Platt's four-of-five and Ryan Sutton's three-of-four as the key data points in play. They're not going to influence Bruni's take at all, however, because his relationship with and love for the Momofukus is documented. Dude's a fan of the Changster. He would have given Momofuku Ssam three stars if they'd have just given him a damn cloth napkin and a seat cushion. Indeed, the assumed number of stars going in is three, based on Ssam's two-pack and Chang's reputation—you sweet commenters notwithstanding—of delivering on the hype. There is a very small chance that Ko will get four stars, but, really, there isn't. It doesn't qualify for that category for the same reason reason Ssam didn't get three: not enough formality, too many stools. The only question for today is, Did, at any point, things get so far off the rails that the Bruni was left with no choice but to spank the boys with a deuce? We've been three times (BURN, bitches) and found it, respectively, mind-blowing, spectacular and spectacular. Thus, we say three stars for Ko tomorrow, with certain obligatory notes made about how this is a three star restaurant of a different sort. BONUS HEDGE BET: The Times photographed the restaurant last Wednesday. Betting on Gael Greene and her boy toy, Tom, being in the photo pays 4-1.
One Star: 6-1
Two Stars: 3-1
Three Stars: EVEN ??
Four Stars: 12-1
· Momofuku Ko [NYT; after 8:00 PM]
?? denotes the Eater bet.