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Week in Reviews: The Harrison Gets the Deuce

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Kalina

The Brunz heads down to Tribeca to give a re-review to the Harrison, now with a new chef Amanda Freitag at the helm. His assessment: it's a safe but not exhilarating two star joint:

"The Harrison, in contrast, is the very definition of dependable, poised to impress you, if not quite wow you, with a hefty, juicy 'English-cut' lamb chop that might well be the famous Keens Steakhouse mutton chop just before the age of consent.

It will give you calf’s liver done the right way, the smart way, in that it’s cut thick enough to make sure that the meat doesn’t wind up chalky or leathery...it’s a restaurant that stays true to the conservative, honorable niche it’s carved out, which is that of a contemporary American bistro where you won’t have trouble spotting something appealing on the menu, and won’t be puzzled when it arrives."

And Bruntastic swears this is not a bad thing: "Faint praise? Nah. Just modulated. And, I should add, genuine." [NYT]

Peter Meehan hops on the Artichoke bandwagon. He's annoyed by the inconsistent hours but loves the pie: "Waiting in line for it spoils the fun, the spontaneity, the charm; needing to strategize to go there is a bummer...The guys at Artichoke brought an underrepresented style of pizza — big pies on a bready, almost tough, crust, generously and greasily topped — and the city has gone nuts for it. Who am I to protest?" [NYT]

Jay Cheshes revisits Bobo to check out the food of Jared Stafford-Hill, and it gives it a four out of six: "Now that his restaurant appears to be finally hitting both its fashion and culinary strides, it may in fact settle into the role it aspires to (and touts on its website) as a clubhouse for the neighborhood’s most dazzling denizens, a sort of overflow annex to the A-list Waverly Inn." [TONY]

Paul Adams weighs in on Anito Lo's Bar Q, and while he's wowed by a few things (the ribs), overall he's unimpressed: "The kitchen seems hard-pressed to keep up with its chef's creativity. On a busy night, the wait between courses can stretch to uncomfortable lengths, and the food that comes out of the kitchen feels slapped-together, adequate but not as delicious as it should be." [NYS]

Adam Platt is the first major critic to hit up the Denton brothers' six week old Bar Milano, giving it two stars. Plattster's advice: stick to the entrees: "For an Italian restaurant of even moderate aspirations, the pastas, at this early stage, are uneven, bordering on downright bad...if you avoid the pastas almost entirely, it’s possible to have a sophisticated, even semi-Italian meal at Bar Milano." [NYM]

THE ELSEWHERE: Wildwood enjoyed a critics party this week as Ryan Sutton loved it, Sarah DiGregorio gave it a mixed bag, and The Cuozz deemed it a "worthy addition." The RG gives three stars to Pomme de Terre, Tables for Two has a rave for Cafe Katja, Moira Hodgson is at South Gate, Sietsema has some kui at Koreatown's Madangsui, and David Lombino puts in his two cents on Artichoke for the Sun.

THE BLOGS: Ed Levine has a grand old time at cheese and wine bar Casellula, Writing With My Mouth Full has taco's at Harlem's El Barrio, The Wandering Eater lunches at Otto, Andrea Strong is at Primehouse, Salli Vates checks out Mia Dona, and Cleaned My Plate is at Yakitori Totto.

Bobo

181 West 10th Street, New York, NY 10014 Visit Website

Artichoke Pizza

328 East 14th Street, New York, NY 10003

Wildwood Barbeque

225 Park Ave South, New York, New York 10003

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