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Adam Platt visits Kerry Heffernan's South Gate in the Essex House. The servings are too small, the haute barnyard items too pretentious, and overall the place earns one star: "My helping of hamachi crudo tasted faintly of eucalyptus oil...the shreds of fish were barely large enough to feed a cat...the 'salmon pavé' is the same kind of pricey ($31), slightly wan-looking salmon fillet served in grand, disinterested hotel kitchens around the world." [NYM]

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