Tomorrow, Frank Bruni reviews Commerce, the restaurant vying for the staying power of its predecessor at 50 commerce Street, Grange Hall. Today, the Eater oddsmakers have set the action as follows:
Zero Stars: 5-1Spoiler, it's a deuce. Commerce is fussy, pricey and self-indulgent, and a real effort to enjoy; but the chef, Harold Moore, and his food will save the restaurant from a single star or worse (either of which would absolutely mark the end of the restaurant). Primetime Platt gave it two of five, noting 'improbably' good food, as did the RG (who initially had given it two of four). Come mañana, Bruni will want to give it one, but will settle on two, based on the height of the high moments and the combined pedigree of its chef and chief publicist. In layman's terms, the owners of Commerce have paid dearly to get the benefit of the doubt on review day, and we think they're going to get it. Our money is on two stars for Commerce, with full notation of the restaurant's shortcomings.
One Star: 4-1
Two Stars: 3-1 ??
Three Stars: 5-1
Four Stars: 5,000-1
· Commerce [NYT; after 8:00 PM]
?? denotes the Eater bet.