Platt visits the West Village's "newest hot, hot restaurant" Commerce, finds the whole experience exhausting, and deems the food worthy of two star status: "...the people who run Commerce are no strangers to the glittering, ephemeral world of flashy New York restaurants...But in the end, as Keith McNally and Danny Meyer will tell you, it’s the food that keeps people coming back. Moore is a big-league gourmet chef, and you could argue that some of the food he produces here is almost too busy and accomplished for its own good." [NYM]
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