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Anonymity Debate, Cont

The other week food critic Paul Levy wrote about the unimportance of food critics' anonymity, stating that chefs can't do much to improve once a critic arrives. Now he has a response from Mimi Sheraton, the former NY Times critic, who has quite a different stance: "A chef can do everything to improve the food, especially if it is restaurant where food is done to order, and it can fool the critic 10 times over with service...A cook may not be able to do better than his best, but he sure can do better than his worst...I have no problem with a feature food article extolling the abilities of a chef, but in my book that is not a review." [Guardian]