Adam Platt files on Dovetail this week, awarding the UWS newcomer a surprise three stars. There's not much to the design and one of the dishes tastes like "old socks", but at least it's better than Compass: "Fraser's last restaurant, Compass, was (and is) famous for giving chefs the ax. Not surprisingly, his cooking there was disorganized and overambitious...But in this smaller, more placid space, there's an edited, unhurried quality to the cooking, and the pride of ownership is apparent in almost every dish." [NYM]
Filed under: