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Le Bern, baby. Photo by Daniel Krieger.
In lieu of a review this week, the Bruni files his year end wrap, therein naming Momofuku Ko Best New Restaurant, the Ko frozen foie gras the Dish of the Year and a lunch at Le Bernardin his Meal of the Year. On Le Bern:
Each dimension of every dish sang with the exact pitch and volume that the chef Eric Ripert had no doubt intended. He’s a maestro, and his kitchen a finely tuned orchestra, and I could happily lose myself in their music every day.Corton, Scarpetta, Convivio and Dovetail round out the Bruni's top 5 newcomers. Even Cabrito got some BruniLove:
The year ushered in many opportunities for great eating at contained prices, though I suspect in this one sense 2009 may outpace 2008. It will have its work cut out for it, because in addition to Porchetta, Gottino and Terroir, there’s Cabrito, whose best dishes — including the carnitas with salsa verde and the roasted poblano peppers in cream — match those at just about any Mexican restaurant in New York.By the numbers, the Bruni notes broadly that 2008 was the best year for New York restaurants since 2004, when both Per Se and Masa came on the scene. He awarded 7 new restaurants 3 stars in 2008, as compared to zero in 2007.
· Same Table Next Year? Not So Fast [NYT]
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