What strikes the Bruni more than the empty tables these days is the desperation of the reservationists: "I’ll cancel an 8:30 p.m. reservation, apologize and, hurrying to my next bit of business, start to hang up the phone. But the person on the other end of the line will be reluctant to let me go. 'Was it the time that didn’t work for you?...Because I can do a half hour later. I can do a half earlier, too.'" [Diner's Journal]
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