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Week in Reviews: Bobo Gets the One

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Kalina, 9/21/07

The Brunz, who skipped the place the first time around, and the second, finally visits Bobo just as it installs its third chef, ex-Radius man Patrick Connolly. While he whiles away much of his word count on what was wrong with the restaurant when it opened, its new star earns it a one spot:

"That star, Patrick Connolly, from the restaurant Radius, has been in charge since mid-August. And he’s given Bobo something more than its looks to be vain about.

In fact a few of his dishes — his appetizers, at least — manage to steal attention from the votive candles lining the dark, narrow staircase up to the main dining room and that room’s droopy lighting fixtures, which bring to mind gargantuan glass jellyfish."

Franktastic is mostly impressed by the food, but some inconsistencies and a strange attitude about the wine service keep it for getting a deuce: "At Bobo there’s thought and ambition and there are good intentions...But Bobo hasn’t wholly surrendered its attitude and put service before sheen." [NYT]

Ryan Sutton checks in on Corton and has nothing short of a rave: "The chef is Paul Liebrandt, whose avant-garde mannerisms probably resulted in his short tenure at midtown's Gilt. So there's reason to be suspicious. Then you order the salad. And you declare that Corton could soon be a four-star restaurant." [Bloomberg]

The Cuozz discovers Alain Allegretti (chef/owner of Allegretti) has improved since his last gig at Atelier in the Ritz Carlton: "At the new place, he's lost the over-complexity and kept the fireworks. His summer menu had fussy touches. But he hit his stride with the fall menu, a kaleidoscopic whirl through the many-splendored flavor spectrum of one of Europe's most colorful cuisines." [NYP]

The RG checks out Brooklyn's Bussaco, and the vibe, the chicken and waffles, the fresh mozz earn it three stars. And then, of course, there's the chowder: "Was there a chowder trend? Did I miss it? Why don't we have one now?....Just imagine - a cold evening, a warm restaurant and a hot bowl of chowder, the white not the red...Bussaco's chowder is not your average bowl of chowder. It's fancy." [NYDN]

THE ELSHEWHERE: Pete Wells begrudgingly approves of The Libertine while Oliver Schwaner-Albirght files his brief on Carroll Gardens' Char No. 4. Double Crown hosts Sarah DiGregorio, Jay Cheshes, and Alan Richaman, Sietsema visits Fort Greene's No. 7, and Tables for Two enjoys Yerba Buena.

THE BLOGS: Ed Levine gives an A- to his favorite hot dog cart Charlie's Fashion Hot Dogs, Cleaned My Plate loves the price, not the taste at Dennis Foy, Writing with my Mouth Full thinks Almond is a good choice, The Girl Who Ate Everything is overporked at Minca, Eating in Translation tries the offal at Ollies, The Wandering Eater finds an empty but impressive Apotheke, and Lifestyle of a Yuppie tries out Korea Town's Don Bogam BBQ & Wine Bar.

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