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Adam Platt is at first worried about Corton's "tempestuous diva" of a chef, Paul Liebrandt, but decides he has finally found his footing, earning four stars: "The recipes are, as it turns out, heavily informed by the Greenmarket aesthetic, and that’s for the best. The avalanche of seasonal ingredients...appears to have tempered Liebrandt’s flamboyance and focused his creativity. The showy pyrotechnics have disappeared, replaced by food that’s technically complex without being exhibitionist, highly refined without being effete." [NYM]


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