With the recession on his brain, The Brunmeister checks in on Mikey Price and Joey Campanero's Market Table. Overall he deems it comforting, affordable, and worthy of the deuce:
"If you want to know which restaurants are most likely to sail through these straits, your answer is here. And it is, indeed, something of a cliché. What makes Market Table work are precisely those attributes supposedly prized most in anxious times. What makes it special is how expertly it embodies them.And for a little Week in Reviews bonus: check out PDT's Jim Meehan (husband to a member of the FOH staff) in the paper's main photo. [NYT]
It’s warm...It’s generous. Many entrees have a bonus they could get by without. The root vegetable risotto beneath roasted halibut isn’t just faultlessly prepared; it’s like a dish within the dish..."
Jay Cheshes checks in on the new chef at A Voce and deems it just as good without the presence of departed chef Andrew Carmellini. He gives it four out of six stars: "Robbins, no second-string draft pick, is as bold and elegant a cook as the man she replaced. She’s stacked the deck with a midautumn menu rich in simple, lusty fare—warm, cozy dishes delivered with drama in cast-iron crocks and big copper pots." [TONY]
Alan Richman, a decided hater of porchetta ("Nothing in Italy has brought me more unhappiness"), is won over by the two newest NYC versions at Porchetta and Murray's Real Salami. Murray's is "like Italian-style pastrami, although it’s softer, silkier, fattier, and creamier than the delicatessen beef" while Porchetta's is "possibly the best under-$15 serving of food in Manhattan." [GQ]
The RG has one of the first positive reviews for Bouley's Danube makeover, Secession, giving it three stars. She doesn't seem to mind the diner-sized menu: "A meal might look like tomato, mozzarella, basil and a New York sirloin with Tuscan fries. Or, it might look like a foie gras terrine and iceberg hearts with Langres cheese, mint, tomato coulis and grapefruit powder...One thing's certain - it's almost impossible to go completely astray." [NYDN]
Platt files a twofer this week, giving Ryan Skeen's new porkoholic Irving Mill menu two stars and Inside Park at St. Bart's one. He is generally a fan of what Skeen is sending out, both porky and otherwise. As for St. Bart's, it feels like a sinking ship: "The tables were mostly empty, except for what looked like a party of parishioners dressed in tweed jackets to our right, and an elderly couple...'We’re on the Titanic,' someone said...Which is too bad, because the food at Inside Park is thoughtful, well executed, and generally first-rate." [NYM]
THE ELSEWHERE: Irving Mill finds another fan of its burger in Ryan Sutton, The Cuozz has a rave for Kaysen at Cafe Boulud, Moira Hodgson is won over by Corton, Sietsema learns that BK Thai may someday be superior to Queens Thai at MaiThai, Sarah DiGregorio has a round up of good places for Indian chaat, Tables for Two is at Allegretti, while Ligaya Mishan's round up/$25 and Under focuses on tea houses (let's repeat: tea. houses.).
THE BLOGS: Ed Levine gives an A- to his new neighborhood joint West Branch, The Beef Afficionado isn't too impressed with the underdressed waitresses and disappointing skewers at Mr. Jones, The AG is transported at Esca, NYC Foodie gets a table for one, porterhouse for two at Benjamin Steakhouse, Writing with my Mouth Full is pleased with the spread at Murray's Real Salami, Lifestyle of a Yuppie tries the K-Town branch of BCD Tofu House, the Pink Pig experiences poor service at Da Umberto, and The Feisty Foodie has a photo tour of dinner at Naya Mezze & Grill.