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Meet the Frank Bruni of 1859

Friends, meet the proto-Bruni. Above, an excerpt from what appears to be the first piece of dining criticism to run in The New York Times. The piece was unearthed by ür-blogger Jason Kottke, digging around in the NYT's newly freed archives. The above is just the tip of a fascinating iceberg—do read the whole thing, as there's genius and gems aplenty about the style and substance of New York City restaurants (and, ahem, feeding troughs) in those giddy pre-Civil War times.
· First NY Times restaurant review, circa 1859? [kottke.org]

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