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The Restaurant Girl Makes Her Daily News Debut, Pans Still-in-Previews Gemma

The first of the RG's reviews for the Daily News drops today, and it's a star-and-a-half for Gemma, which is technically still in previews. We'll save most of this for tomorrow, but in case you want an early look:

The cedar-plank roasted sea bass (branzino) - the best entrée by a landslide - turned up exceptionally smoky and moist, paired with vibrant broccoli rabe. The rest? An excessively fatty porkchop, a deflated brick-oven chicken and a swordfish that would have been better left unskewered.

The safest road to travel is the selection of pizzas. They emerge rustic and warm from the wood oven, fragrant robiola cheese tucked between two wafer-thin slices of charred focaccia. Even better is the four-seasons pizza, delightfully topped with a scattering of fresh artichokes, basil, mushrooms and crispy prosciutto.

· Gemma's Cuisine Takes Back Seat to Hip Downtown Scene [NYDN]
· New Food Critic Faces her Public [NYDN]

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