The first of the RG's reviews for the Daily News drops today, and it's a star-and-a-half for Gemma, which is technically still in previews. We'll save most of this for tomorrow, but in case you want an early look:
The cedar-plank roasted sea bass (branzino) - the best entrée by a landslide - turned up exceptionally smoky and moist, paired with vibrant broccoli rabe. The rest? An excessively fatty porkchop, a deflated brick-oven chicken and a swordfish that would have been better left unskewered.· Gemma's Cuisine Takes Back Seat to Hip Downtown Scene [NYDN]
The safest road to travel is the selection of pizzas. They emerge rustic and warm from the wood oven, fragrant robiola cheese tucked between two wafer-thin slices of charred focaccia. Even better is the four-seasons pizza, delightfully topped with a scattering of fresh artichokes, basil, mushrooms and crispy prosciutto.
· New Food Critic Faces her Public [NYDN]