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Tuna: Endangered But Fun to Eat

The Editorial and Dining sections of the Times are not fully in sync today, which means fun for you. From the Editorial page:

Along with sharks and other ocean-dwelling species, tuna have been in free fall for decades, in part from rapacious overfishing by big industrial fleets, of which Japan’s is by far the most aggressive. Obviously, rising consumption is also to blame.
And from the Dining section:
[Top-grade tuna is] scarce, hard to find, practically unaffordable when available and largely reserved for the classiest Japanese restaurants for use in sushi...The common replacement for bluefin, yellowfin, has nowhere near the same flavor and tenderness. Asking it to stand in for bluefin is not really fair, because the results are often disappointing: relatively dry, sometimes tough and nearly tasteless.
· Japan's Tuna Crisis [NYT]
· Not the Elusive Bluefin, but Just Fine for the Fire [NYT]