The people may have the Bruni's back more than anyone had previously known. In an impressive and somewhat rare show of solidarity, most of the food set sided with Frank Bruni today on the topic of Keith McNally's statement regarding Bruni's taste for women chefs. The basic pro-Bruni argument, stated clearly by Ed Levine (who does note that he's a regular Bruni dinner companion) and others is that it's not a Bruni issue with female chefs, but a New York issue (no one disputed McNally's assertion that a very few female chefs boast stars from the Times). Megnut also points out that San Fransisco is much better at elevating women in the kitchen than is New York.
There's validity to the pro-Bruni argument, of course; but there is validity to McNally's position as well, especially his first point, about the textual treatment of men and women in Bruni's reviews. Morandi, at present, is not a two-star restaurant, but McNally is also making the suggestion that female chefs don't have the benefit of the doubt that their male counter parts do. While this is debatable, it is, in fact, debatable. The extremely one-sided, anti-McNally response is surprising. Even Chodorow didn't face this much ire and his case for Kobe Club, that Bruni wasn't qualified to enjoy it, was at least as questionable. Then, again, maybe we just need to get Mr. McNally set up with a blog.
· McNally Takes a Groundless Swipe at Bruni [SE]
· Frank Bruni Hates Ladies, Claims Crazy McNally [Gawker]
· McNally Take a Cheap Shot at Bruni [Cutlets]
· Sexism in the Kitchen [Megnut]