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Eater Inside: Le Lupanar

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Kalina, 12/12/07

This is Le Lupanar, named for the French word for brothel. It's designed in the fashion of other Lower East Side long-shots, in that it's come to the party a bit too dressed up. But, going for it are Kieter Chan and Ian Brahmstedt, La Lup co-owners, who are not total restaurant newbies. Chef Brahmstedt has cooked at Jardinière and La Table in San Francisco. Going against it is a general sense of preciousness that could easily prove fatal, especially given its highly dodgey, not suitable for a date location. (Side: if they're now opening restaurants between a parking garage and McDonald's, there's no room left in Hell Square). From the menu, we find the case of every dish having one too many ingredients. Exhibits A and B: Alaskan king salmon, roasted fennel, fingerling potato, red wine fumet, herb salad ($26) and Murray’s free range breast of chicken, parsnip puree, bacon roasted haricot vert, brandy wine jus ($24).

Above is the main dining room, below, a never-before-seen private dining room.


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