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Eaters' Journal 11/2: Smith's, Shorty's, Back Forty, Moim, Market Table, DessertTruck

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This is the Eaters' Journal in which we opine on meals of the week past.

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Kalina, 10/3/07.

Smith's: Credit Danny Abrams for firing on all cylinders Monday, opening night, because the restaurant is actually quite a pleasure right out of the gate. Reverse layout, with dining room upfront an bar in the rear is smart; also makes the bar something of a hiding place. Pastas, lobster, bar grilled cheese are the move. At this early stage, it's also an excellent place for Becca Parrish sightings. —Leventhal

Shorty's.32 (above): Josh Eden can cook a helluva lot better than he can name a restaurant. Lamp shades, ".32" both have to go, and will, but the roast chicken, and the restaurant, stays. Call McNally or AvroKO for help re the lighting. Number of times a busboy reached across the table to refill a glass: 4. —Leventhal

Back Forty: Like Shorty's.32, an instantly crucial addition to the neighborhood. Both these places will wait out the six-month clearance required to join the Eater 38 on pins and needles. Another one of these new places where the pre-appetizer snacks were the highlight (nb Red Maine Shrimp and Lobster Beignets). Solid burger. Decor just the tiniest touch too wood-moderne, no? —Steele

Moim: Did NOT feel like Park Slope; probably the coolest-looking restaurant in the area. Food was really good, but portions were a little small - usually I can't finish bi bim bop, but there, I was still hungry. Kabli, NB, excellent. —Price

Market Table: Would Stulman please make a mistake already? Far more accessible for lunch, especially at the bar, the restaurant/market is settling into a serious stride. Absolutely do not miss the vegetable chili special—it'll be the kid's first error if the dish doesn't get a firm spot on the fall menu, as it's nothing short of spectacular. One bonus point awarded for staying open on Halloween in the West Village. —Leventhal

DessertTruck: Doubters who think sea salt and olive oil belong nowhere near a molten chocolate cake will be proven sorely mistaken. As I was. Pastry chefs are the new rock stars, and Columbia MBAs are the new roadies. It's quite a concert. —Arak

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