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Phoning It In: Will Goldfarb Opens the Dessert Studio

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Will Goldfarb made a real name for himself at Room4Dessert (now closed, the victim of an ugly ownership dispute), got a New Yorker profile out of it and by way of sequel promised the world big things from a new Room4Dessert, bigger and better than the first. And while we wait for that to happen, Goldfarb has opened two new venues designed expressly to transfer money from his fans' pockets to his own bank account. First, his Battery Park City sandwich kiosk Picknic, a disastrous exercise that had everything to do with marketing and promotion and nothing to do with food; and now Dessert Studio, a new, cockamamie collaboration with Chocolat Michel Cluizel, the high-end cholotatier sandwiched between restaurants Lucy and Pipa on Broadway between 18th and 19th Streets.

While the store itself has normal business hours, Dessert Studio is open three nights a week and only has seven seats. Three nights a week, seven seats. It is a very small element of an entirely disjointed sugar shop concept. And, if his behavior at an invite-only tasting on Friday was any indication, his sous chef is doing all the work behind the dessert bar. Goldfarb prefers to work the room. Despite the love it got from The Robs in New York today—and the Times Flo Fabbage that is being cued up for Wednesday—it's the kind of effort that actually does make Sam Mason look like a bad ass and his Tailor like Per Se. Goldfarb is a talent, but let's call this what it is. If and when Room4Dessert II opens, we'll get back on the Goldfarb train. Until then, until Goldfarb gets his ass back in the kitchen and makes some dessert, we've had enough.

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