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Week in Reviews

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The Underground Gourmet three stars El Quinto Pino, which is semi-bonkers, considering the venue is just six weeks old. But, nevertheless: "El Quinto Pino honors Spanish tradition by offering some foods, like olives and anchovies, virtually untouched...Within the context of a menu so limited you can practically order everything on it in a visit and a half, [Chef Alex] Raij still manages to show her range, from a peasant dish like a gelatinous pig’s-ear salad to upscale specials like one night’s white asparagus with shaved black truffle and a poached quail egg." [NYM]