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Eater Inside: Varietal

[Kalina, 1/16/07.]

What we have here is Chelsea's Varietal, which is betting huge on The People's current wine obsession. The players are Greggory Hockenberry, principal, head sommelier; Ed Witt (of Il Buco and Nicole’s), chef; and Jordan Kahn (of Alinea, French Laundry and Per Se), pastry chef. The food is competently crafted, if not a smidge precious, and desserts are, of course, a three ring circus of textures, flavors and presentations.

The wine program is the main attraction, with as many as 75 wines are offered by the glass. One Eater field inspector reported that though the list is good, the price point is aggressive. Tasting flights combined with small plates at the bar may be the best plan of attack.

Further reading at Dr. Vino.

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