Breaking out the Deathwatch stamp isn't the giddy event some suspect it might be at Eater HQ. To the contrary, it is simply part of the job; what must be done, must be done. And so, today, with no joy: Lonesome Dove.
The problems here started long before November 15, 2006, but that was the day they certainly got worse, as the morning paper revealed that The Bruni had bitchslapped chef Tim Love's western eatery with the dread Satisfactory. Bruni's takedown came after a spate of other critics voiced confusion about Love's foray into New York; the space was awkward, the staff unpolished; the food, on the other hand, mostly held up, thanks to Love's impressive Texas pedigree.
Alas, two months post-Bruni, it's clear things aren't getting better. Above, evidence of a new happy hour with free food (Deathwatch Indicator #14). Below, a reader email:
I recently went to check out Lonesome Dove on a Saturday night at 8pm, and the place was EMPTY. Out of curiosity, I have walked past it a few times to see if this was a fluke. It seems that this is a regular occurrence at Tim Love's NY outpost.And so with that, that's that.
Upon being seated, the waiter promptly spilled a large tray of ice waters all over out table and a few of the diners. The hostess attempted to be accommodating, but the whole everyone in the place seemed frighteningly amateur. Amateur is ok if you are paying $15 for an entrée. Not ok if you are paying $30+.
The food, actually was better than expected. I had read several tepid reviews, but was still curious enough to give it a try. Overall though, I cant stay I was happy with the experience. Mark my words, this place will not last through the summer.
· Eater Inside: Lonesome Dove [~E~]
· Tim Love's By-the-Book PR Machine [~E~]