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Week in Reviews: Parea, Staghorn Steakhouse

1) For the fifth time in six weeks, Bruni issues a two-star verdict. This time it is to Michael Symon's Flatiron Greek, Parea. He likes the food:

[A]bove all else, it's a fittingly arresting showcase for a sophisticated chef's efforts to recast Greek cuisine by approaching it with atypically high standards, unearthing neglected traditions and finding novel assignments for commonly used ingredients.
But, is compelled to deduct points for atmosphere:
[B]y the time several companions and I got to them, we had bigger troubles. Our voices were shot. Although the word Parea means "group of friends," the restaurant retards their conversation, becoming so loud on crowded nights that it's necessary to bellow or even pantomime. Perhaps Parea should change its name. What's Greek for charades?
With two stars quickly becomming the Bruni equivilent of white noise a better question is, what's greek for we're bored? (The rest of the two-starred pack: Degustation, Dona, Dressler, and Cafe D'Alsace.) [NYT]

2) Having taken a week off from the food beat, the The Cuozz returns to form today with a look at Staghorn Steakhouse, a new, under-hyped steakhouse entry on W36th Street. He likes what he sees:

Staghorn's dining room in brown wood and white tile is comfortable but spare. Its mantra is first-class meat from some of the same suppliers used by Peter Luger and its Manhattan wannabes like Wolfgang's and Ben & Jack's.

It dry-ages its cuts for up to 28 days, achieving an apex of concentrated flavor, and fires them on 1,500-degree broilers that char the crust while keeping in the moisture. It neatly slices its buttery porterhouse and serves it in a sizzling pool of juice.

Our man also manages to take a quick jab at Craftsteak, namely its "highly specialized cuts and such impressive-sounding designations as "Grade 6" and "Grade 8," whatever they mean." All in, its a good day for Steve and a better day for Staghorn Steakhouse. [NYP]

Ahead, six more reviewers weigh in on six more restaurants in, get this, six more neighborhoods.

Elsewhere, Meehan a fan of the 'modest and casual' Cafe Condesa; Tables for Two at the 'lovely, creamily comforting' BG; TONY concludes 'we're all pieces of ass here' and one stars Mr. Chow; $20 Bucks a Day 'bests Pio Maya's flavor' at De Guerreros; Nosh enjoys Burgers & Cupcakes; and NYC Stories at Todai.

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