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Eater Inside: Rewind

[Kalina, 7/6/06]

Essex Street on the Lower East Side is the vertical to Delancey's horizontal: a street that stubbornly rejects upscaling even as the byways around it move on up. Essex Street's latest arrival, the dining/lounge Rewind, looks spacious in the Kalina lens. Be forewarned: we're functioning at close to Maximum Kalina here; the raw space, formerly home to the permanently plywooded SX 137, is narrow and dark, and though the exposed brickwork is a nice touch, don't expect it to feel much roomier. Still, in a neighborhood overrun with bozos at all the usual venues, it's probably worth a look. (Should it not suffice, may we recommend the Russian-owned liquor store next door?)

Further reading in Plywood and at Restaurant Girl, who doesn't have very nice things to say about the cuisine.

Supper Club, Lounge, Bar, Exposed Brick
137 Essex Street (Stanton/Rivington); 212-779-7923