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Eater Inside: Colors

[Kalina, 1/19/06.]

Meet, Colors. A cooperative owned and operated by former Windows on the World staff, the restaurant is an extremely earnest, and often satisfying, exercise in decadent modesty. Top to bottom, it is the polar opposite of the cesspool that was Pangea, the previous tenant at 417 Lafayette.

Multi-cultural flare is the thing here, as the menu has such divergent dishes side-by-side as Pam Thai and Winter Squash and Mushroom Risotto. (The latter of which especially is among the best dishes on the current menu.) Mixing and matching can get dicey, so the recommendation here is to stay focused. The Pam Thai, for example, works nicely with a Merluza Pacifica. Raymond Mohan is the executive chef.
· Colors Menu [Colors]
· Diner's Journal: Colors [NYT]

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