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Blogger Reichl on Ramsay: 'nothing will wow you'

Ruth Reichl, Editor-in-Chief of Gourmet and the owner of one of the more trusted palates in the land has finally taken to Choptalk, the blog she recently launched at Gourmet online. Though last week she filed an entirely innocuous item on the new Russian Tea Room, this week her topic is Gordon Ramsay. It turns out that being a food critic is a lot like riding a bike.

Perusing the menu, you find that it is filled with the rather classic French food that made Ramsay's reputation. It's pretty flawless stuff, the service is impeccable, the wine list is wonderful . . . and nothing will wow you...

Personally, I was expecting a little more in the way of fireworks from the guy who's known as the foulest-mouthed chef in Britain. Anybody can get stars, but that's one reputation that is not easily earned.

No stars were awarded, of course, but that'd probably be asking a bit too much. So, that's the story of how Ruth Reichl became a blogger.
· London Calling [Choptalk]