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Eater Inside: Cafe Cluny

[Kalina, 10/30/06.]

By any reasonable West Village standard, Cafe Cluny has opened big. Its resto-celebrity owners Lynn Wagenknecht, Judi Wong, and Steven Abramowitz (The Odeon, Cafe Luxembourg) have transformed what is a mostly sedate, if interestingly appointed, West 4th Street storefront into something quite a bit more sceney. Preview meal crowds included Graydon Carter and the like. But among those for whom the owners aren't the draw, it remains to be seen if the menu will get them coming back: early spot inspections ranged from very good (the linguini with cockles) to the uneven (an over-cooked but nicely flavored duck confit) to the boring (a pan roasted cod with a tasteless polenta).

Overall, Cluny is an extremely workable Village choice. It'll calm a bit when McNally and Carter open, which for better or for worse might transform the venue from a media set scene into a bona fide local restaurant.

Further reading in the Dish.