[Kalina at Tabla, 1/13/06.]
1) Moira Hodgson awards Floyd Cardoz's Tabla a pretty serious three stars. After a setup that includes the inevitable nod to Mr. Meyer's 'impeccable' service, there is, of course, the small matter of the food:
The three-course dinner menu costs $64. Mr. Cardoz’s signature crab cake in a poppadum shell came with an avocado salad flavored with toasted cumin and lime juice and a tamarind chutney that was so good I’m going to try it at home (there’s a recipe in Mr. Cardoz’s book). The tamarind adds a deep lemony flavor that perks up just about anything.And she goes on. And on. Hodgson's final decoration: "Tabla has settled down to become one of the city’s great restaurants." [Observer]
2) Next, Adam Platt on Boqueria, which he two-out-of-five stars:
My portion of the Spanish bouillabaisse equivalent, called suquet, could have been more subtle, but contained plenty of nourishing seafood (monkfish, fresh clams), and if you’re a meat eater, you’ll want a taste of the boar terrine, which is cut in triangles and presented in a little tower, with sweet-onion relish and platoons of candied almonds. Best of all, however, was a dish called caballa, which consists of slices of gently poached Spanish mackerel served in a rich broth made with fish stock filled with navy beans and bits of frizzled artichoke.Something about his review reads a bit long this week, so if you're looking for the short story it is, "One star for culinary competence, and another for the stylish upgrading of the tired tapas genre." [NYM]
Ahead, we skip right to the elsewhere, which kicks off with Bruni's borderline irrelevant visit to Harry's.
Elsewhere, Bruni one-stars Harry's, Dana Bowen for $25 and Under at Momofuku Ssam Bar, Paul Adams at I-Chin, Tables for Two at Cafe d'Alsace, Nosh at Clinton's Lali, Restaurant Girl at STK, Augieland on white truffle season at Gotham,