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Eater Inside: Enoteca Barbone

[Kalina, 10/10/06.]

Enoteca Barbone is a neighborhood restaurant at its core, satisfying if you're close and somewhat disappointing if you've made a special trip. But Chef John Baron, who has Babbo on his CV, has nothing to be ashamed of here and in time the venue may prove worth a 15 minute cab ride. He's crafted a cozy dining room and back garden, doing the former Joey space right. Pastas are at times excellent, though the non-carb mains are a bit more uneven.