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Week in Reviews: Perry St. sends Conant to the Brink

1) Perry St., Jean Georges much heralded return to simplicity, received three stars from Bruni today. (Two stars, if you factor in the BruniCurve?.) If JGV has any sense, he'll send his boy Scott Conant a case of Macallan 18 this morning. It is conceivable that Perry St., the very epitome of a solid two star restaurant, in our intermittently humble opinion, owes its third star to Conant. Suppose Conant, having delivered a couple of choice words to the Intelligencer this week, inspired our man at the Times to rethink his Perry St. experience. Indeed, a translation of his front-page-placed Perry St. review -- diabolically headlined, "Showmanship Yields to Elegance" -- might be: Hey Conant, Ker-POW! [Times]

2) The Cuoz heeds our call and heads to the 15-plus-yeras-old Cite for a check in. Mostly he likes what he tastes, especially the $69 all-you-can drink prix fixe. [NYP]

Elsewhere, Sietsema at Shanghai Cafe, a Table for Two at Perry St., Perry St. Observed, and, lest we forget, Cuozzo at Perry St..