In re Bruni's review of Taku: by our count, it's only the fourth time since Frank took over that he's mentioned an actual menu item in the first paragraph (to wit, "a chilled strawberry soup"). The other three:
1) Per Se, 8/8/04: "butter-poached lobster"
2) Devi, 11/17/04: "a plate of pyramid-shaped rice puffs"
3) Tempo, 11/10/04: "bucatini"
