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At Long Last, a Review of Per Se

Moira Hodgson reviews Per Se for the Observer this week and somewhat ceremoniously awards it -- get this -- four stars.

Kind readers, just let us handle this one, 'K? Cover your ears for a quick sec while we talk to Moira, will ya?

Moira, love. We know you'd been waiting patiently; that you'd spent two months training your palate for the experience. We know you needed a way to put it on your expense report. But maybe you missed the fact that everyone and their mothers have reviewed Per Se.

Can you think of a single good reason why all of these people, many who have by now been to Per Se and seen for themselves its goodness, would care to hear -- yet again -- that Per Se is the greatest restaurant in the history of the world?

We don't want to make it a whole to-do, Hodg, but please don't let this kind of editorial atrocity happen again. We've got Bruni to massage guys like Keller. We need you to cover newer, far more original fare.

· Two Months of Waiting Yields Five Hours in Foodie Heaven [NYO]